Here is the step by step:
Nutria – the material that I use for tails and legs:
a close up photo:
Here is a nymph with a special place in my fly box.
I use it in Autumn for grayling fishing
Hook: Maruto D82BL fly hook #16
Thread: 17/0 Uni
Body: hand stripped quill – natural color
Legs: Whiting Brahma hen barbs
Tail: guard hair from Nutria -natural dark color
Here you can find a pattern very easy to tie if yo are beginner in fly tying and you need a fishy fly
If you are interested about tying with Super Long Hair you can find here an older article
Here is the step by step for a great bug for grayling.
Hooks: Demmon 100BL #14
Thread: Demmon Hot Spot Thread -fluo orange
Wire: Hends Red wire
Bead: Bidoz Pink bead
and the step bu step:
and a few variants:
all of them are ready for fishing
The Queen is my best cdc dry fly for slow and medium running waters.
It is an artificial fly which floats perfectly on water, and it’s very realistic so that fish can’t ” turn it down”! I happened to create it while I was tying some classic dun flies with CDC. I was trying to find a balance between the shape and the position of the wing of the fly. For this reason I was fixing some CDC barbs towards the eye of the hook and another bundle fixed classically on the eye of the hook. At the second bundle of CDC it was more difficult to cut the extra CDC because there wasn’t enough space between the eye of the hook and the fixing spot. If I didn’t cut them carefully, short ends of barbs would remain and cover the eye of the hook. This would have made the head too thick and unnatural in the end. This is the reason why I stopped cutting the extra tips of barbs and instead leaving them long, approximately at the length of the insects’ legs. I made a few turns between the barbs to spread them so that in the end they remained fixed onward and laterally oriented. With the help of the body and tail the barbs of CDC create a perfect balance of the fly.
The major advantage of this technique is that the legs of CDC rest onward and laterally oriented regardless of the number of casts. The wing of the fly rests upwards, exactly the way it should be in the case of a DUN. On top of all, the fly floats great, maintaining the well-defined form which makes fish attack more often than in the case of the same fly tied differently.
Thread: 17/0 UniThread
Wing: Natural Grey CDC
Legs: Natural Grey CDC
Here is a step by step about how to tie a midge emerger using Agostino Roncallo style. Agostino is a great Italian flytyier who published a few beautiful fly tying books and many articles.
Hooks: D910 Daiichi #14-18
Thread: 17/0 Uni
first Body: Puf CDC
Second Body: peacock barbs and grizzly hackle
Wing: Grey Dun Wing CDC
And the step by step:
Usually a hot spot is applied behind the bead or behind the eye of the hook. In rivers with a high nymphing pressure like in Eastern Europe, the classic nymph with a classic hot spot fails. In this situation if the fisherman uses the same pattern with a different position of the hot spot he will succeed in catching grayling and trout. The most common color for hot spot is orange. From my experience, red is a great color also ( especially for trout ), chartreuse for both species, and pink and violet for grayling.
UV colors are also great for hot spots.
The name of the thread that I used for tying the nymphs bellow is Demmon. In my opinion it is the best thread that I have found until now. Demmon thread is very strong and very resistant at abrasion with parallel semi bonded filaments.